New England Gardener

Question:
We have a clean slate on the front and side of out house. What kind of foundation plantings do you recommend? We live right outside Boston MA.
Thanks! Julia
Answer:
Hi Julia

Driving around New England this August makes me think of how little I know about all the variety of flowering plants, shrubs , and trees available to us. The July rain may have hurt the tomatoes, but the August flowers are brilliant!
At my home, we have the traditional New England Favorites. Hydrangea and Roses are a must. Daylili, Black Eyed Susan’s, Azalea, and Oregano are all over the place. Iris and Gladiolus bloom in June. Rose of Sharon are in bloom right now. Ornamental Grasses are easy to grow, a bit tough to cut back though. You will learn that burning bushes are invasive species, and no longer sold in New England. But the Blueberry Bush has a similar color to Burning Bush, and you can have your own family berry picking days. Another one in bloom now is the Butterfly Plant (attracts butterfly’s). In the fall you can put some tulip and daffodil bulbs in for bloom in early spring. When you shop, there is no need to get real big plants. You can start with cheaper small plants, then with pruning and feeding, they will grow fast. Be sure to put them in the ground 3 or 4 feet from the foundation, that space will fill within a few years. Then prune the plants so they do not touch the house.
Enjoy creating your new garden, a never ending project

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Question:
I have been reading about these proven winners plants after a friend of mine picked up some items at a local store. What are your thoughts on proven winners and is it all hype? I found a site that sells proven winners online at a reasonable price, it’s shop.pwfourstar.com. They have something called a waterwise for home irrigation. I am going to buy one and check it out since it’s only $30. However, i figured i might as well try some plants out if they are worth it. They look good in pictures, but do they perform? Just curious.

Answer:
Hi James,
Most of the plants in my garden grow from the smallest, non-brand name sprouts, I find at the local nursery. I count on Ron and Cindy Simon at R&C’s in Scituate MA to buy and sell quality plants and vegetables. They do sell Proven Winners, but I am not looking for labels. The only reason I do not start from seed, is the time and effort it takes to do it myself. Once I get the plant home it is up to me to become a proven winner. That is, I make sure the ground is wet, (or as is the case this summer, not too wet), and the soil is well tilled with plentiful worms, and not too many weeds. I will do more hand pruning and pest removal, and feeding, than application of chemicals or letting growth go out of control. Like anything else, the more love you give, the more love you get. In my opinion, our TLC will take a plant to Proven Winner Status. Please let us know if you see better results from the Proven Winners you may have purchased.

Many Happy Returns, Tim

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Early stages of Late Blight on tomato plant. Note the brown lesion. These lesions grow rapidly. Also look for brown discoloration on stems.

Do you have it on your potato or tomato crop?
Look for nickel sized brown lesions often ringed by dying yellow foliage and brown discoloration on the stems of plants. This link about late blight shows a few more photos and has helpful information about how to control it.

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I’m trying to determine if my Tomato plants are being affected by blight. The bottom of the plants are turning brown and dying while the top of the plants continues to thrive. If this is a sign of blight and should I remove the plants from my garden completely or is there a chemical pesticide that is safe for this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Michael Christoferson
Exeter NH

Hi Michael.
The photo above shows a yellow branch I will remove from my one of my tomato plants The lowest leaves on tomato plants usually turn yellow this time of year, but this year the rot is going to the extreme. Today at the American Legion redemption center I heard from Jim ‘The Weatherman’ that his summer squash are thriving, but his tomatoes are dying.
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Question:
My bean plants have all yellowed on their bottoms..tops are still green. I blame it on all the rain. What do I do to correct this situation? Suggestions welcome.I am on the Worc/Norfolk County line in Mass.

Answer:
Hi Finny,
I think your instincts about excessive moisture are correct, but just to be sure, have you checked the plants, including the undersides of leaves, for signs of insect damage? Are there any pocks or holes on leaves? Consider pulling a plant to check for stem/ root rot. Are there any signs of powdery mildew or other fungi on the beans?
If you come up empty handed, it’s probably just too much rain and not enough sun. Remove dead leaves and consider adding some aged compost or other organic matter to improve drainage in your garden. Make sure there’s enough space between plants (Air circulation is important) and pray for sun.
–Amy

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Macrophylla or Mophead Hydrangea In Bloom

I have a hydrangea plant which I brought from my mothers garden in New York 6 years ago. It grows beautifully with healthy green leaves, but has never flowered. Any suggestions?
Sue

Answer:
Hi Sue,
I’m assuming you’re growing a macrophylla or “mophead” hydrangea because they’re the ones that can be finicky in our northeastern climate. It’s important to remember that older mophead varieties form buds and bloom on last year’s stems.

Here in New England, a late spring freeze can wipe out all the buds that have started to swell on the old growth. One way to determine if this is happening is by simply looking at the spring growth. If all the green is coming up from the ground instead of from existing branches, you’ve got a hardiness problem. I’ve seen this happen on a Nikko Blue in my yard. Some years I get blossoms. Some years I don’t.

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