New England Gardener

August 12 Pest Report From MOFGA

LATE BLIGHT
What to do with a field infected with late blight
[Reprinted and modified a bit from an article by Becky Grube Sideman, UNH
Cooperative Extension, Sustainable Horticulture Specialist]

Late blight is now in potato and tomato fields throughout the state. From
what I have heard, those using preventative fungicide programs have kept
the disease at bay thus far, but many who did not apply fungicides are
having fields go down. Once symptoms are widespread in the field, it is the
time to cut your losses and kill the plants to prevent the disease from
spreading into other fields or high tunnels. For tomatoes, this will mean a
crop loss. For potatoes, however, it may still be possible to get a decent
crop.

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Gardeners,
Here are some preventative treatment options for Late Blight suggested by Tom Eickenberg at Johnny’s. I’m posting his email to me in response to my question, “Is there anything to be done to treat plants that are already infected…”

From Tom:
I am sorry, once a plant has late blight it should be removed from the garden, as it will die shortly and can infect the remaining plants. The Maine Cooperative Extension is recommending you put a plastic bag (to prevent the spreading of the spores) over plants with late blight, then remove them from the garden. Throw the plants away do not compost them.

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Early stages of Late Blight on tomato plant. Note the brown lesion. These lesions grow rapidly. Also look for brown discoloration on stems.

Do you have it on your potato or tomato crop?
Look for nickel sized brown lesions often ringed by dying yellow foliage and brown discoloration on the stems of plants. This link about late blight shows a few more photos and has helpful information about how to control it.

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Zach and I Pull What's Left Of The Peas.

I had planned on pulling the remainder of my pea crop last weekend, but the plants kept producing–a pod here, a pod there–and I couldn’t bring myself to rip them out. But the garden clock is ticking, and I knew I need to put the pea real estate to good use. So, with Zach’s help, the pea crop came out this afternoon with three forceful yanks.

I decided to go the easy way and buy deeply discounted seedlings from my local garden center. Unfortunately, I waited until the pickings were slim. I purchased and planted a half dozen sad looking cauliflower seedings and 4 celery plants. I’ve never planted celery so I’m looking forward to watching the plants mature.

I’ve also seeded the old spinach beds with carrots-twice–and germination is spotty. In past years, I’ve had good luck with July carrot plantings. I’m wondering if the rains have washed seeds away? We all know it can’t be the heat this summer! I may pop up to the garden before work this week and drop a few more carrot seeds in the ground.

What are all of you planting in late July?

Question:
My bean plants have all yellowed on their bottoms..tops are still green. I blame it on all the rain. What do I do to correct this situation? Suggestions welcome.I am on the Worc/Norfolk County line in Mass.

Answer:
Hi Finny,
I think your instincts about excessive moisture are correct, but just to be sure, have you checked the plants, including the undersides of leaves, for signs of insect damage? Are there any pocks or holes on leaves? Consider pulling a plant to check for stem/ root rot. Are there any signs of powdery mildew or other fungi on the beans?
If you come up empty handed, it’s probably just too much rain and not enough sun. Remove dead leaves and consider adding some aged compost or other organic matter to improve drainage in your garden. Make sure there’s enough space between plants (Air circulation is important) and pray for sun.
–Amy

Have a question for the Garden Team? Ask them here!

Macrophylla or Mophead Hydrangea In Bloom

I have a hydrangea plant which I brought from my mothers garden in New York 6 years ago. It grows beautifully with healthy green leaves, but has never flowered. Any suggestions?
Sue

Answer:
Hi Sue,
I’m assuming you’re growing a macrophylla or “mophead” hydrangea because they’re the ones that can be finicky in our northeastern climate. It’s important to remember that older mophead varieties form buds and bloom on last year’s stems.

Here in New England, a late spring freeze can wipe out all the buds that have started to swell on the old growth. One way to determine if this is happening is by simply looking at the spring growth. If all the green is coming up from the ground instead of from existing branches, you’ve got a hardiness problem. I’ve seen this happen on a Nikko Blue in my yard. Some years I get blossoms. Some years I don’t.

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